How To Adjust The Laser On The Mini Circular Saw?

Recently, we receive some feedback that the laser line is not correct.

On checking it, we think that it is caused by collided during transportation or the projection of the laser may be shifted.

This is a common problem and means you need to make an adjustment on your laser.

How to adjust laser on the mini circular saw?

Open the cover of the laser, then please do it as below steps;

  1. screw out these 2 screws;
  2. rotate the laser line to the best drection;
  3. re-tighten these 2 screws after adjusting.

Hedge Trimmers: A Beginner’s Guide To Hedge Care Tools

Every gardener knows that regular mowing is an important part of everyday horticulture and that failure to do so will leave your grass untidy, unruly and unpleasant to look at. It’s odd, then, that many people seem not to realize that hedge maintenance is equally important.

Without trimming and pruning hedgerows, shrubs and bushes on a regular basis they will grow rapidly and leave your garden a mess. Leave it long enough and the inexorable creep of your hedges will shrink your garden, leaving you less green space to enjoy, and potentially cause unpleasant spats with neighbors unhappy about your cypresses intruding upon their property. As such a hedge trimmer is just as essential as a lawnmower for any homeowner with shrubs and hedgerows in their garden.

But with so many different models available it can be hard to know where to start when investing in a hedge trimmer. That’s why we’ve made this brief introduction to the wonderful world of hedge maintenance, offering a brief overview of some of the considerations to keep in mind and some recommendations for machines that might suit your needs.

Corded, Battery-Powered & Petrol Hedgetrimmers

One of the most important things to keep in mind when buying a hedge trimmer is the power source, as different types of hedge trimmers are suitable for different applications. The three main kinds are corded electric, cordless battery-powered and petrol hedge trimmers, each of which will suit the needs of different users.

  1. Corded Electric Hedgetrimmers

Corded hedge trimmers are generally best suited to use in smaller gardens because they require access to a mains power source. Nevertheless, these machines are typically easy to use, lightweight and relatively inexpensive so make great tools for inexperienced users. Freedom from exhaust fumes, excessive noise and service requirements of a petrol machine is another reason that corded hedge trimmers are increasingly popular.

Cable length is an important factor here, so be sure to check that your machine is suitably equipped for the size of your garden. You’ll also want to invest in a residual-current circuit breaker (RCCB) to prevent accidents should you accidentally cut through the power cable.

2.Battery-Powered Hedgetrimmers

Battery-powered hedge trimmers offer the same clean, quiet and convenient operation as corded trimmers but with added freedom to roam in larger or complicated gardens. This makes them ideal for the majority of domestic hedge maintenance work, with modern lithium-ion batteries ensuring enough run time for uninterrupted cutting and cutting performance which can sometimes match that of a petrol machine. Remember to check the average run time of the machine you a buying before making a purchase though, as there are few things more frustrating than having to stop and recharge your batteries with half of the garden still untrimmed!

3.Petrol Hedgetrimmers

Petrol hedge trimmers are typically reserved for the largest gardens and professional applications, chiefly because they provide significant cutting power and complete freedom to work when away from a power source. This makes them perfect for use on the largest properties and on scrubland, which is often where the most challenging cutting work takes place.

However, petrol hedge trimmers are also heavier, noisier and produce more emissions than electric machines. They also require more maintenance and can be more expensive to run, while refuelling can sometimes be a fiddly process. These machines are therefore not usually recommended for inexperienced users.

If you do decide to invest in one of these powerful machines, however, you are pretty much spoilt for choice. You will want to get a machine suited to the cutting work you will be doing, so for general hedge maintenance a hedgetrimmer like Sorako Cordless Hedge Trimmer will do the job nicely, with its 18 inch reciprocating double-blade offering plenty of cutting power while remaining manoeuvrable. For tougher commercial hedge maintenance, on the other hand, a machine with a longer blade, like the 75cm tempered steel number boasted by Efco’s TG 2800 XP, will allow you to handle even the heaviest workloads with ease.

How to Choose Jigsaw Blades?

A good machine can be half the battle when it comes to achieving satisfactory cuts with a jigsaw but you’re still going to be fighting an uphill struggle if you have the wrong blade for the job installed in it. However, there are a huge variety of options on the market and this abundance of choice can be a bit bewildering for inexperienced users. Therefore to make it a bit easier to find the right accessories for your requirements, we’ve compiled this quick guide to choosing jigsaw blades in which we’ll go over some of the most commonly required types.

1.Shank Type

OK, so before you fit anything you’ll ideally want to have worked out whether your jigsaw takes T shank or U shank blades (which are identified by the shape of the end that goes into the machine and can be seen on the accompanying picture). T shank blades have become much more common over time and chances are this is what you’ll need, especially if your machine was manufactured in recent memory. However, U-shank blades can still be easily found for the jigsaws that take them, and in fact, Ryobi makes a set of blades that incorporate both shanks – which could be an ideal starting point if you’ve found an old jigsaw and have no idea what type it takes. Some especially old jigsaws take a U-shank blade with an additional hole in it, and unless you can modify a new blade to fit, these are becoming much harder to replace.


A blade that isn’t long enough for the task at hand will quickly cause problems so you’ll want to make sure you’ve picked a suitable one if you’re cutting through deep materials but bear in mind there are two different figures which can be quoted here: Total Length, which usually runs from the tip of the shank to the tip of the blade, or Cutting Length, which corresponds to the actual part of the blade that does the work. As well as making sure you have sufficient cutting length to make it through your workpiece, it’s a good idea to leave around 25mm of additional legroom due to the reciprocating nature of the tool.

3.Workpiece Material

You’ll probably come across blades for wood or metal in your local hardware store but there are also more specialized options available, including blades for ceramics, tiles, fiber cement, sandwich panels, laminates and soft materials like leather or rubber. Blades for these materials will generally be labeled and sold as such but due to similarities between materials and constraints of product titles or descriptions it may not always be immediately obvious if there is a blade on the market that matches your requirements. A good example is plastic, which is a fairly common material to cut with a jigsaw – however, relatively few jigsaws blades are explicitly categorized for this purpose. In fairness there is a multitude of different types of plastic you may need to cut but for most home & garden building materials a blade for wood will do the job. So if you can’t find a blade that’s advertised as being suitable for the materials you have in mind, it’s worth doing some research on the internet or asking a staff member whether they have any recommendations. We have made the Jigsaw Blades category on the Tooled-Up website a bit easier to navigate by introducing filter options for common materials so you can narrow down your search results if need be.

4.Blade Material

You may have also noticed that jigsaw blades themselves are made out of a variety of materials. In many cases, this will be printed on the blade as well as the packaging for quick identification, typically in the form of an abbreviation like HCS. Let’s take a quick look at some of these and their various strengths (or weaknesses).

HCS Jigsaw Blades
HCS Jigsaw Blades are usually fairly cheap and ideal for curved cuts in softwoods.
HCS stands for High Carbon Steel. These blades can withstand flexion well and are generally inexpensive, making them a popular everyday choice for softwoods and light-duty plastics. As the metal is fairly soft and pliable these blades can be expected to survive bends and curves but the teeth will wear out faster than with other types, especially if used on tougher materials.

HSS Jigsaw Blades
HSS stands for High-Speed Steel and is commonly used to make drill bits for metal (before its invention, metal would typically be machined at low speeds to avoid wearing out the tooling). Likewise, jigsaw blades made from HSS are more often than not designed for metal as well. While HSS teeth can withstand repeated cuts through tougher materials, the metal itself is quite stiff and inflexible, meaning that bends and curves can cause it to break prematurely.

BIM Jigsaw Blades
BIM & HSS Jigsaw Blades are often used for cutting metal.
BIM stands for Bi-Metal and is a composite, commonly consisting of the two previous materials outlined above. By using HSS for the teeth and HCS for the main body of the blade, the shortcomings of both materials can be overcome, creating a blade that will flex without breaking and cut through hard materials without dulling the teeth. This makes these blades ideal for curved cuts in tougher materials like hardwoods and metal. Due to the extra manufacturing processes involved, BIM blades can be amongst the most expensive to buy, but their increased durability means they can be viewed as a long term investment.

TC Jigsaw Blades
TC stands for Tungsten Carbide, which is an extremely hard material commonly used in industrial tooling. TC blades are not made purely from tungsten carbide but instead, they have either carbide teeth or, more commonly, a layer of tungsten carbide grit which is applied to the cutting edge instead of saw teeth. This is commonly used when cutting through abrasive materials like kitchen or bathroom tiles, fibre cement boards, plasterboard or glass fibre reinforced plastics. Similar blade technologies can be identified by terms like TCG, RIFF and Diamond.

5.Tooth Configuration

Unlike the last example outlined above, the vast majority of jigsaw blades will have some kind of saw tooth configuration which will determine how quickly, neatly and effectively they can accomplish any given task. When it comes to saw teeth, one of the most basic principles is that a high tooth count makes for a finer but slower cut, while a low tooth count makes for a faster but rougher cut. The workpiece plays a big part too: jigsaw blades for metal can quickly be identified by their especially fine teeth, while a coarse cutting blade for softwoods will typically have much larger teeth which enable it to quickly power through the material. Most jigsaw blades are designed to cut on the upstroke and have teeth that point towards the shank, but you can also buy blades with a reverse configuration, commonly known as downcut or reverse tooth blades. The primary reason for this is that when running a standard jigsaw blade along the top of something like a laminated worktop, the top side of the work surface will have a much rougher finish as the teeth are pushing the laminate away from the material as they cut their way through. This can be avoided by placing on the jigsaw on the opposite side of the material, but another solution is to install a reverse tooth blade which will produce a much neater cut through the tool side of the workpiece without having to flip it over or work from the underside. The downside of these kinds of blades is that they can’t be used in pendulum modes, meaning that working time can be prolonged, especially during longer cuts.

Aside from this, there are lots of other considerations in jigsaw blade design. Whether the teeth are milled, ground, side set, wavy or straight are all factors that can contribute to a blade’s performance, cutting speed, finesse and longevity. Without wanting to get too into depth in this quick guide, any advantages conferred by these variables can often be identified by consulting the blade packaging or looking up the part code online, which should tell you the blade’s particular strengths and any recommended applications.

One last point (if you’ll excuse the pun) is that some jigsaw blades have specially designed plunge tips, meaning they can be inserted into the middle of softwoods and similar materials rather than having to be started off from the edges. Any normal jigsaw blade can be used for cut-outs too, usually by first drilling a starter hole to slot it into. However, if plunge cuts are a regular part of your working routine and you don’t want to have to rely on additional equipment, a jigsaw blade with a plunging tip may be a worthwhile investment.

6.Blade Thickness

Because jigsaw blades are long, thin strips of metal that are only supported by the tool at the shank end, they can often leave angled cuts through thicker materials due to the end of the blade wandering during use. This is often seen as a limitation of jigsaws themselves (and to a degree it is) but in many cases, it can be overcome by careful blade choice. One of the most effective ways to ensure straight cuts from top to bottom is to choose a blade with an increased thickness that will be much less prone to wandering. Bosch denotes blades of this type with a “P” suffix on the product code – for example, the T1044 DP wood cutting jigsaw blades – and many other manufacturers print these equivalent codes on their own products for easy identification.

If you want to make straight cuts that you can hold a square up to, a thick blade may be ideal for the job but there are many cases when thinner blades prove their worth too. As well as offering increased maneuverability that makes them well suited to negotiating curves and for general purpose use when cutting sheet goods, thinner blades also place less demand on the tool’s motor. Though this is not typically a concern when connected to mains power, it means runtime can be theoretically extended with cordless tools, enabling you to work for longer on a single battery charge. Thin blades designed specifically for cordless jigsaws include the Makita Super Express series, available as a 3 piece set for wood and metal.


Of course, this is only a short guide to some of the options and variables on the market and only scratches the surface of what’s available. The best way to ensure you’re choosing the best jigsaw blade for your requirements is to consult the manufacturers’ description and intended usage, and most new blades are supplied with basic usage instructions and application guides. To make it easier to navigate through the various options we stock on our website, we have added filter options so you can select from options like shank, length and material type to help narrow down your search results.

Hand vs Electric Screwdrivers: What’s Best for You?

For the different types of screwdriver tools. Hand screwdrivers and electric screwdrivers are both useful, but the right type of screwdriver for you depends on what you’re trying to accomplish.

Assessing the Production Needs of Your Business

Before you consider the different types of torque tools available, it’s best to take a close look at the needs of your assembly. Envision your process, then ask yourself the following questions:

1.Are you fastening bolts or screws?
2.How much torque do you need to deliver?
3.How many fasteners do you need to tighten in a day?
4.How large is your assembly area?
5.Do you need to collect and document detailed assembly data for your product?
On an even more basic level, you need to know what you’re fastening and how fast you need to fasten it. If your product has any special needs, these should be taken into consideration as well. Once you’ve got this figured out, it’s time to look at your options and find the tool that fits your needs.

Choosing Between Hand and Electric Screwdrivers

Your answers to the questions above will help determine the tool that best suits your needs. For instance, if you’re fastening bolts, you’ll need a wrench. If you’re fastening screws, you’ll need a screwdriver. That’s the easy one. Assuming you’re looking for a screwdriver, the next step is to look at the amount of torque you need to apply.

Hand screwdrivers, particularly preset hand screwdrivers, can deliver more torque than electric screwdrivers. After all, heavy-duty electric screwdrivers can deliver almost 90 of torque. However, most models are only capable of delivering about half that amount or even a quarter. Preset hand screwdrivers, in contrast, can deliver up to 120 So, for larger screws that need more torque, hand screwdrivers are likely your best option.

Once you know how many fasteners you’ll need to tighten in a day and how large your assembly area is, you’ll have an idea of how fast you’ll need to work to accomplish your production goals. Electric screwdrivers are substantially faster than hand screwdrivers. So, if you’re only producing a few items a day, hand screwdrivers will get the job done. If you need to make many products at a rapid pace or fasten many screws on the same product quickly, though, an electric screwdriver is more likely to meet your needs.

In some industries, it’s essential to collect and store data on each fastener for quality assurance or regulatory purposes, and often both. Doing so is much simpler with electric screwdrivers as they can be easily augmented with screw counters or linked together as part of a DC control system. Either option allows for real-time monitoring and collection of data on every fastener. Collecting this data with hand screwdrivers is not nearly as easy. Fasteners can be tested after the fact with a dial screwdriver and their torque values recorded by manual data entry. This method, while possible, is onerous and time-consuming when compared with automated systems.

The final consideration is price. By and large, hand screwdrivers are less expensive than electric screwdrivers. As such, it stands to reason that if hand screwdrivers fit the needs of your production, they will more easily generate a return on your investment. If your assembly could feasibly use either type of screwdriver, then, it makes more financial sense to invest in hand screwdrivers. However, if your production volume is too high or your data collection needs are too rigorous to accomplish by hand, then electric screwdrivers are the right choice.

The most effective way to decide how to tool your production process is the most simple. Figure out what you need, then choose the tools which best fulfill your requirements. Your knowledge of your product’s assembly process will tell you almost everything you need to know. What’s the best tool? The one that gets the job done.

Gas vs. Electric: Picking the Right Leaf Blower

Speed, convenience, budget—all are important considerations when weighing gas vs. electric. 

In the handheld category, gas blowers are still the fastest way to clear a yard full of leaves. But the best corded-electric blowers are powerful enough for many big jobs, though you’ll have to stick within 100 feet of a power outlet (most outdoor extension cords top out at that length).

Gas handheld leaf blowers go anywhere, but they weigh and cost more than corded electric—and they’re noisier. They also require fueling and maintenance. Cordless-electric versions offer less power than gas models and limited runtime per battery charge. But these units are light, typically weighing in at less than 10 pounds.

Backpack blowers typically cost more than handheld blowers, but they offer more power and transfer weight from your arms to your back and shoulders. Backpacks tip the scales at 22 pounds. 

Got lots of leaves and a level property? Wheeled blowers pack the most power by far. They also take up the most storage space, can be tough to push and control, and bear the biggest price tags of all these categories.

Some handheld blowers also inhale yard debris via a vacuum, a feature that comes in handy for sucking up leaves as they fall or for taking care of stragglers. But their relatively small tubes limit how much you can vacuum at once.

13 tips you need to know for using Laser Level.

Do you think that laser levels are a bit of a gimmick? If you select the best laser level for your carpentry task, we bet you will be reaching for one more and more often. Here are 13 tips for using this versatile tool.

1.Inexpensive Torpedo Level

Buy an inexpensive torpedo laser level for occasional use around the house, or if you want a compact level for your tool belt. As with traditional levels, you’ll have to manually align the bubble with the center of the vial. Then the laser will project a level or plumb laser line or dot. 

2.Self-Leveling Cross Line Laser

Consider a self-leveling,cross-line laser for ease of use and the greatest versatility. These start at about $80. Cross-line lasers project a level line, a plumb line or both. They’re great for all kinds of leveling and plumbing tasks.

3.Laser Level Square

For tile layout and for laying out 90-degree corners for decks or sheds, a laser level square is handy. It will project a pair of perpendicular lines.

4.Three- or Five-Point Self-Leveling Laser

Choose a three- or five-point self-leveling laser ($80 to $200) if you need to transfer points from the floor to the ceiling. You can also mount a point-type leveling laser on a tripod and swivel it to mark the ends of a level line. Point-type lasers don’t project lines but work great as a quick and accurate substitute for a plumb bob.

5.Auto-Leveling Rotary Laser

Rent an auto-leveling rotary laser for large outdoor projects like setting elevations for foundation footings or leveling posts on a large deck. The kit, which costs about $60 a day, will include a tripod, an elevation rod and a laser detector. The laser detector allows you to use the laser in bright sunlight.

6.Working in Bright Light? Use Special Glasses

Laser beams are hard to see in bright light. But you can improve the visibility of the line or dot with special red glasses. Don’t expect miracles, but the glasses definitely make the beam easier to see, and they’re worth buying if you’re working outside or in a brightly lit space. 

7.Lay Out on the Floor First

With a point-type laser level, you can lay out your ceiling box and light fixture locations on the floor, where it’s easy to measure, and then use the laser to transfer them to the ceiling. This technique is especially useful for vaulted or sloped ceilings, where locating light fixtures would require a plumb bob.

Start by marking the light fixture locations on the floor with masking tape. Then elevate the laser and line up the downward pointing beam with the center of the fixture. Now you can mark where the upward pointing beam hits the ceiling.

8.No-Fuss Square Layout Lines

All kinds of remodeling projects require square layout lines. Tiling—floors or walls—is a perfect use for a laser level square. The only function of this special type of laser level is to project a pair of perpendicular lines, like crosshairs. A laser square is great for planning your layout: You can set it on the floor and measure from the lines to see how your tile layout will work. And it’s perfect for actually setting tile too, because the lines won’t get covered by the thin-set or mastic. You’ll find laser squares at home centers and online.

9.Mount it on a Tripod

Most laser levels have a threaded hole on the bottom that accepts a standard 1/4-in. tripod mount. Some laser levels come with a tripod. But if yours doesn’t, it’s worth buying one. A tripod allows you to easily adjust the laser to the best height and level it on uneven ground.

But you don’t need a tripod that’s designed for lasers. If you already have a camera tripod, it’ll probably work just fine with your laser since the threads are usually the same size. Or buy a cheap one wherever cameras are sold.

10.Transfer Stud Locations With a Laser

If you’ve ever installed kitchen cabinets, you know how time-consuming it is to mark the stud locations inside the cabinet to position the mounting screws. With a laser level that projects a plumb line, it’s easy. You still have to locate the studs and mark the centers. But once this is done, you can simply align the vertical beam with the stud mark and drive your screw on the laser line. This tip will work for cabinets, shelves or any other installation that requires you to anchor to studs.

11.Measure From a Level Reference Line

A common misconception about using a laser is that you have to get the beam lined up exactly where you want the line to be. In most cases, it’s easier to simply project a laser line somewhere on the wall, and use it as a reference. Just measure up or down from the line the desired amount and mark the wall. When you use this method, it’s a good idea to mark the wall at the laser line, too. Then if the laser gets bumped, or you move it, you can reestablish the same reference line by lining up the laser with your mark. You can also use a point-type laser as a reference. You’ll just have to swivel it to make marks in other locations.

12.Build Walls With Laser Lines

Here’s a huge time-saver if you’re building walls in an existing space. Normally you would have to snap a chalk line on the floor, then use a plumb bob or a laser level with a long straightedge to transfer the floor marks to the ceiling. With a laser that projects a vertical beam, you can skip all these steps. Just line up the laser where you want the wall to be, and you’ll see lines on the ceiling and floor. You can leave the laser in place and build to the laser lines, or you can use the lines to make marks for the top and bottom wall plates. Either way, it’s much faster and easier with a laser. A self-leveling cross-line laser works great for this. You can buy one at home centers or online.

13.Find the High and Low Spots in a Floor

When you start a kitchen cabinet installation or tile a wall, you need to know whether the floor is level and how much variation there is from the high and low spots. It’s easy to figure out with a laser level.

Just set the laser on a few scraps of wood or a paint can in a spot that will project a beam across the floor. Make a quick sketch of the floor plan. Then pick a spot and extend a tape measure to the floor. Note the measurement where the laser beam crosses the tape, and mark this on your sketch. Then check other areas of the floor and jot down these measurements. The location with the smallest dimension is the highest spot, and the difference between the largest and the smallest dimensions tells you how much the floor is out of level.

How do select the types of reciprocating saws?

While most saws are primarily used to make precise cuts, reciprocating saws are typically used to make rough cuts or to handle demolition projects. They deliver plenty of torque to the blades, quickly powering through harder materials like wood, plaster, masonry, metal, drywall, and stucco. 
The popular reciprocating saw models include cordless and corded Sawzall saws, to help you work your way through the toughest tasks. Explore options from Milwaukee, DEWALT, Craftsman, Makita, Hychia, Sorako and more to get the best fit for your projects.

Two Types of Reciprocating Saws

Popular for demolition, plumbing, construction and electrical projects, these saws are perfectly suited for rough cuts or projects where accuracy isn’t the main concern. Due to their lightweight construction and easy maneuverability, reciprocating saws are an ideal choice for working in tight spaces. When choosing the best tool for your projects, there are two main types of reciprocating saws to consider.
Cordless Reciprocating Saws

If you’re looking for an option that offers maneuverability and convenience, a cordless reciprocating saw will allow you to move around from job site to job site without much restriction. Cordless Sorako saw is a popular option for battery-operated models that let you make quick cuts without the hassles of dealing with a power cord. When the battery begins to drain, simply charge it up so you can get back to work.
Corded Reciprocating Saws

If your primary goal is to maintain fast and powerful cuts, a corded option may be your best bet. Corded reciprocating saws are often more lightweight than cordless models since they don’t carry the weight of a battery. As long as you have access to an electrical outlet, a corded model will offer nearly unlimited run time.

Key Features to Look for in a Reciprocating Saw

When searching for the right reciprocating saw, consider the types of projects you might be performing. For example, a small reciprocating saw might be best suited for overhead tasks such as cutting branches or pruning trees. A larger reciprocating saw may be an ideal fit for heavy-duty projects such as cutting through pipes. 
Explore all the available features when purchasing a reciprocating saw, including the following:

  • Variable Speed: Designs with variable speed controls allow for greater consistency and precision. They also let users select the appropriate speed based on the type of material being cut. 
  • Stroke Length: Reciprocating saws feature stroke lengths ranging from ¾ to 1¼ inches. The longer the stroke length, the faster the cutting action. 
  • Tool-Free Blade Changes: If you work with multiple types of materials or handle many different projects on a regular basis, a saw equipped with tool-free blade change technology lets you replace blades more quickly. 

6 Reasons For Choosing Your Cordless Drill & Impact Drivers

1. The right size for each task

Size does matter, and when you’re working overhead or in tight spaces you want tools that are fit for the job. Our range of cordless drill & impact drivers do not compromise on performance, at any size.

2. Balance of power and comfort

Weight affects how long you can comfortably hold a tool, and our range of cordless drill & impact drivers let you choose between the compact and light or the heavier but more powerful.

3. Performance for every task

Different levels of power are required to drill holes through metal, drive screws into drywalls or bolts into timber, and each of our cordless drill & impact drivers give you the right power for each application.

4. Combination of safety features

Businesses need to protect their greatest assets: the people. That’s why many of our cordless drill & impact drivers feature Active Torque Control (ATC) to reduce the likelihood of injuries.

5. Ergonomics to match the job

Each tool has been designed to provide an impressive balance of performance, comfort and efficiency to give you the choice of cordless drill & impact drivers that work at the highest level.

6. The right fit for your business

We believe you need the right tools that fit your business, today and tomorrow. That’s why our range of cordless drill & impact drivers let you cover the broadest range of applications, easily.